Palisades (half) traverse

14er, California, DayHike, EasternSierras, Murica, Showcase

Palisades (half) traverse

The day started with the intent of climbing North Palisade from the West chute (U-notch Southwest side). But, things changed when JG (who wanted to climb Thunderbolt Peak) and I were traveling at the same pace from the trailhead to Thunderbolt pass - and both of us expressed an interest in the Thunderbolt - Starlight - North Palisade traverse (and both of us had the route details printed out!) "Let's do it". "Sounds good".

The Palisade Basin and Dusy Basin seen from Thunderbolt Pass

Thunderbolt, Starlight and North Palisade peaks seen from Thunderbolt Pass

With the change of plans, we slogged up the Southwest Chute #1, hit the chockstone blocking the way, climbed to the right around it (Class 3), got back to the main chute, veered right when there was a split in the chute and crawled under this boulder to reach the notch.

Boulder to crawl under right below the notch on Southwest Chute #1

View of the Lightning Rod (not the summit) from the notch

View of Mt. Sill and the Palisades Glacier from the notch

Class 4 route up to the summit from the notch

But, we didn't take this route above. Since JG had been up this route before, he led me down towards the glacier and then up an exposed class 4 route to the summit. A sign of things to come?

Starlight peak from the summit of Thunderbolt peak

JG free-ing the 5.9 summit block on Thunderbolt Peak

JG setup a top rope with a 5mm rope for me - but before I could attempt the summit, we had a couple of other climbers (Sn and Jn) get to the summit with climbing ropes that JG setup for us. I hadn't planned on climbing the summit block - but with a top rope setup, why not? I aid climbed my way up to the summit - one down, two to go!

The descent from Thunderbolt peak to the Underhill couloir is an exciting class-4 descent to the looker's right (descender's left) of the tall block below. Look a few steps ahead and the descent looks class-5 - but head closer and there are class-4 moves that help you descend!

The class-4 descent from Thunderbolt summit to the Underhill Couloir

The class-3 slabs below the class-4 chimney descent

View of the Palisades Glacier from the Underhill couloir

From here, we mostly stuck close to the ridge on the climb up towards Starlight. This is mostly class-4 with maybe a move or two which is class 5.0 (d) :-)

Dusy Basin and Thunderbolt Peak from the ascent to Starlight Peak

Palisades Glacier, Mt. Gayley and First, Second and Third lakes from the traverse

At the 'Milk Bottle' summit of Starlight Peak (5.4)

JG freed the summit block - and was kind enough to setup a top rope for me with the 5mm rope he had. I aid climbed this summit block too on a weird self belay - and had a nervy rappel since the rope was not long enough to let me descend all the way to firm ground!

Looking down from the 'Milk Bottle' summit

The short traverse between Starlight and North Palisade is mentioned as the crux of the traverse in many trip reports - and it does hold true. We crawled out of a narrow corridor from the Starlight summit and and stayed close to the ridge line on the right (southwest) side as far as possible. At one point, we could see the 5.x dihedral to the summit of North Pal in front of us - separated by a deep couloir. Climbing down to that was ruled out. So, we climbed up to the ridge and onto the left side (towards the glacier), downclimbed a bit to a gully that led back up to the ridge and a slab that led to the dihedral. This section of the dihedral to the summit was a relatively easy class-4 climb. The traverse was done - and without a rope (except for the summit blocks)!

Descending from Starlight

The dihedral that leads to the North Palisade summit

Panorama from the North Palisade summit

The descent from the summit is a pain. It's a lot of scree, loose rock and sand - and it felt like we ended up on the wrong chute to descend after the catwalk. Strangely, I have distinct memories of descending down the same chute on my first North Pal summit attempt - and JG apparently descended the same chute on his North Pal summit a few weeks ago - so maybe it was the right chute?